10 Most Awesome “Nose-to-Tail” Creations! @MadridFusionManila (Day 2)

by Kris Landrito

Day Two of Madrid Fusion Manila 2017 continues with the theme “Towards a Sustainable Gastronomic Planet”, focusing on “Nose-To-Tail” for the Regional Lunch. 

A buzzword that spread throughout the culinary world, Nose-To-Tail is actually more a tradition than a trend in the Philippines. It’s part of our culinary lifeblood as evidenced by our wide range of food that uses ingredients or parts of an animal that some would consider as trash. Just look at our streets filled with hawkers selling adidas (chicken feet), isaw (skewers of intestines), and even betamax (congealed pork blood).

Because of the deep history of nose-to-tail cooking in the Philippines that transcends social classes, the entire hall was abuzz with excitement to see (and taste) how the chefs would take this style of cooking to the next level.

Madrid Fusion 2017 Series:
• @MadridFusionManila 2017: A Gastronomical Roadmap to Sustainability! (Photo Essay Recap)
• 10 Most Awesome Heirloom Rice Creations! @MadridFusionManila (Day 1) 
• 10 Most Awesome “Nose-to-Tail” Creations! @MadridFusionManila (Day 2)
• 5 Most Awesome Corn Creations! @MadridFusionManila (Day 3)

 

Here are our Top 10 favorites from Day 2 of Madrid Fusion Manila’s Regional Lunch curated by Nina Daza Puyat, Sasha Lim Uy Mariposa, and Idge Mendiola:

1. Next Generation Adobo by JP Anglo of Sarsa Kitchen + Bar

This dish was a culinary journey through the Philippines as much as it was a culinary feast for the palate. Adobo, being one of the most iconic Filipino dishes, has no agreed universal recipe in the country. Each region (sometimes even each household) has their own version of Adobo that they claim to be authentic.

This dish doesn’t choose sides but instead takes us through the different ways Adobo can be prepared. From the sweet and comforting chicken tail braised in gata all the way to the chicken liver in XO sauce, JP Anglo has shown us that the only authentic adobo is the one we love to eat.

2. Mindanao Milk Gelato by MNL Creamery

This was an enjoyable break from the heavier dishes of day two. The freshly churned gelato made from milk from Mindanao provided the perfect creamy yet light base for the playful flavors and textures that defined the dish. Our team would eat this everyday if only there was no threat of expanding waistlines.

 

We especially loved the calamansi gel that provided a refreshing tartness, as well as the dehydrated milk foam (AKA crispy milk) that added an interesting crunch to the dessert.

 

3. Kare-kare by Mikel Zaguirre of Locavore

Having three different textures of tripe and braised oxtail, one of which was tripe collagen incorporated into the rich kare-kare sauce made from a 3-nut purée–it was clear that this dish was made with much thought and intricacy.

 

It’s culinary masterpiece, however, rested not on its elaborate preparation but on the luxurious yet simple flavors released with every creamy umami-laden bite, interspersed with a tangy surprise that refreshes the palate.

 

4. A Toast to Chocolate by Risa Chocolates

A Toast to Chocolate should be renamed to “A Toast to Cacao” because that is what this dish exactly is–a homage to the cacao plant by Pam Lim Cinco.

 

Challenged to have as minimal waste as possible, Risa’s served a cacao wine made from the usually discarded pulp of the cacao plant alongside their dark chocolate truffle housed inside a beautiful white chocolate shell, made with carabao milk butter from Caraboo.

We don’t know whether to classify this dish as a dessert or as a happy hour treat but either way, this dish definitely put a spring to our steps.

 

5. Buko Pie by Sunshine Puey of Gourmandise by Sunshine

Despite being composed of a variety of coconut parts, the buko pie by Sunshine Puey was surprisingly complex in its simplicity.

 

Layers of coconut meat with coconut crepe topped with smoked coconut cream, paired wonderfully with caramelized coconut jam, finished with brown butter crumble for the perfect crunch to this creamy dessert.

 

6. Betamax by Niño Laus of NINYO Fusion Cuisine & Wine Lounge

An ode to the famous nose-to-tail concepts in the streets of Manila, Niño Laus has made a sophisticated dish out of the humble betamax.

 

On top of infusing 70% dark chocolate into the grilled chicken blood, the dish was served with a creamy sauce foam base made with uni, kamias, and calamata and topped off with a cashew crust containing inengkanto rice crisps. These layers of contrasting textures and complementary flavors gave betamax a luxurious update.

 

7. Sisig Fideos by Manam (Moment Group of Restaurants)

Manam’s House Crispy Sisig was given an update by serving it on top of seven different Filipino-Asian noodle varieties (miki, canton, bihon, glass noodles, vermicelli, munggo, and rice noodles).

Served alongside their dinuguan infused rice cake topped with coconut cream and cured egg yolk, this dish was a clear crowd favorite.

 

8. Kilawin Kambing Terrine by Francis Lim of Tipple & Slaw, and Nav Modern Thai Cuisines

The kilawin kambing terrine was an interesting take on the traditional goat kilawin. While the mouthfeel remained the same despite the difference in presentation, the terrine had more bite to it with the inclusion of goat rib, shoulder, and leg.

 

Served with a side of cucumber relish with pickled onions and topped with pickled fried chilies, this dish provided a good balance of flavors that are staples of kilawin dishes. The dehydrated calamansi also added a nice crunch (and touch) to the dish as well.

 

9. Pig’s Head Skewer with Brown Rice Porridge by Patrick Go of Black Sheep

A take on the classic merienda of arroz caldo and barbecue, this dish utilized the various parts of the pig head to create a sampling of flavors and textures that brought us back to our childhood, eating streetfood during summer.

 

From the pickled tongue to the ear braised in batwan and the cheek smoked in coconut wood, the dish presented a well-executed concept that added another dimension to seemingly ordinary Filipino food.

 

10. Dinakdakan by Jay Angeles of Health Kitchen Manila

A tribute to the creative geniuses that make the most of the ingredients presented to them, this dish by Jay Angeles is a culinary piece of art. Instead of the traditional dinakdakan that utilizes parts from a pig’s face, this dish is literally nose-to-tail. From the use of pig’s brain mousse all the way to braised ox tail, this one-bite dish had us wanting for more.

Given how great the dishes have been so far, we can’t wait for the last day of the Madrid Fusion Manila 2017 Regional Lunch!

 

Madrid Fusion 2017 Series:
• @MadridFusionManila 2017: A Gastronomical Roadmap to Sustainability! (Photo Essay Recap)
• 10 Most Awesome Heirloom Rice Creations! @MadridFusionManila (Day 1) 
• 10 Most Awesome “Nose-to-Tail” Creations! @MadridFusionManila (Day 2)
• 5 Most Awesome Corn Creations! @MadridFusionManila (Day 3)

 

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Disclosure: Day 2 of Madrid Fusion Manila Regional Lunch was sponsored by the Department of Agriculture and was curated by Nina Daza Puyat, Sasha Lim Uy Mariposa, and Idge Mendiola. I wrote this article with my biases, opinions, and insights.  

P.S. The SapSap Paupiettes on Crispy Head, while not part of the curated menu for the nose-to-tail themed lunch, was a knockout dish that our whole team loved. The McCormick chefs did a great job of using all parts of the fish to create a dish that had distinct layers of flavors and texture that pleased our palates.